For a broken torsion spring, the job is matching spring wire size and wind to the door weight and drum setup - on older Tukwila installs this sometimes means the original spring size is no longer a stock item, and we cross-reference to the closest current equivalent rather than special-order and make you wait. Cable replacement goes hand in hand with spring work when the cable shows fraying, since both carry the same load path.
For opener issues on original 1980s-90s units, we test the logic board, the sensors, and the drive gear before recommending a full opener swap - a lot of "dead opener" calls turn out to be a $20 sensor bracket knocked out of alignment, not a dead motor. Track and roller work is straightforward on this vintage of door: steel track gets re-aligned or swapped section by section rather than whole-unit replacement in most cases.
One honest limit: if the door itself is a original wood or early steel panel door from the 60s-70s edge of that range and the panels are delaminating or rusted through, spring and opener repair won't fix the underlying problem - at that point replacement is the better use of your money, and we'll tell you that instead of billing you for a repair that won't hold.